When we arrive we are the only punters and are sat at a long table made of lots of other irregularly sized tables pushed together. We have had a small adventure getting here - squashing into Joop's car with 4 of us across the back seat and an extra row on the seats in the boot. We stopped to gather the visiting Orthopaedic surgeon in our convoy and promptly reversed into a tree in the roundabout at the front of the hospital. A few moments later a car is parked clearly going the 'wrong way' round the roundabout - Joop complains about the poor driving. Before I can stop myself I hear my mouth saying 'I'm not sure you can claim the moral high ground if you've just driven into a tree....' The packed car fell silent...
So I'm glad to reach the restaurant and seat myself at the other end from Joop [No harm done though - he invited us back to his house after dinner for drink!]. Shortly a trestle table is loaded with a buffet. We make our way up to have everything explained. I spot the Nshima at the far end (standard) and the beans at this end. So far so good. Now Phoebe starts to talk - these are fried flying ants (hhmmm), a green vegetable mousse, the little fish from the market, some white aubergine, offal, baloney (described as a vegetarian sausage) and then the piece de resistance - trotters/hooves [There has been debate subsequently as to which animal these were from]. I realise a few things at this point 1) I didn't have a clue what to expect and should have asked, 2) I have no idea how much it's going to cost and 3) I'm a bit wet really. I'm keen for a real Zambian experience as long as it doesn't involve me eating things that I wouldn't normally eat....
Nat is in front of me and I watch her load her plate. Then I start. The pots look small so I don't take too much of anything. I avoid the fish (I just don't do fishy fish particularly not small ones that you get the whole of - these look to be mostly eyes, skin and bone). I look closely at the offal, am heartened by Rory saying 'great! Sausage meat!' but then spot a piece of colon sticking out of the pile and decide to move on. Similar story at the trotters - part of me wants to try it but then I look too closely and can't face lifting one onto my plate. As Nat and I turn back (she has fish and a trotter but no offal) Fi comments on the 'cordon bleu' portions. I decide to watch her closely.
As it happens the ants were just fine - they were just crunchy but didn't have a strong taste. They actually make a good accompaniment for Nshima as they give it texture. The fish were deemed to be very strong - well avoided. The trotters caused contention. Nat attacked hers with a knife and fork, managed to get the skin off it only to discover nothing particularly edible underneath, so gave up. Fi piled her plate high with things and I hear her ask Joop how to eat the trotter. I look up with interest. She has it between her forefinger and thumb, touching it as little as possible - exactly as you might a damp old rag of unknown provenance. She brings it close to her face and sticks her teeth out as far as they will go to take the tiniest nibble. Clearly she misses or fails to get anything off so she tries again. Fails again and gives up - down it goes! I feel better. She still has the high ground, it got on her plate, which was better than I managed. Although I do clear my plate.
NB: The only people that ate the trotters were Geoff and Joop. Geoff subsequently got the trots and Joop hasn't been seen in work today (Monday) either..... coincidence?
Luxury
Those not working have arranged to go to Chipata. Will's away and Nat's working so we have to go by 'taxi'. Geoff stays behind because of his sudden affinity to the bathroom. I feel a little guilty but he wouldn't have fit in the two cars anyway, so perhaps it's a good thing. Halfway the car in front suddenly makes a small swerve and slows rapidly - puncture! These must be common because the two drivers have it changed in about 5 minutes flat.
The next 'issue' is the Police roadblock. The rules on taxis appear to be the same as at home - you need a licence and special insurance. Will and the rest of us normally get waved through the block easily but today things are different. We are ordered to pull over. Rory asks if it's just because someone wants money - they do want money but it's legitimate - sort of. It's quite clear that a beat up car with one local driver and 4 muzungus in it isn't a group of friends on a trip. Two cars in a row makes it even more obvious. Technically I assume the drivers should have been arrested but instead they hand over some money (I didn't ask how much) and we carry on to the hotel!
The pool is so inviting after the heat of the car that we all get changed straightaway and jump in! Lovely! And so much warmer than a few weeks ago! Great. After a short while we get out to warm up. The wind gets up and the parasol I am hiding under makes a bid for freedom, nearly decapitating Fi in the process! We decide to get back in the water - it seemed safer! Just as we leave again we hear splashing behind us. A little boy is climbing down the steps - he appears to fall off the last step (it's hard to see - Nat fell off it last time) and now he's out of his depth. He starts to flounder. His mum yells at us from her sunlounger at the far end to 'help him'. For a moment I'm frozen, time moves slowly, and his eyes suddenly open really wide. Fi has managed to make her legs move before I do and she's down the steps by the time I can reach his arm from the side. He says nothing as we drag him out... and neither does his Mum! Charming!
We eat well before heading to the shops. As seems common, the power is down so only the big supermarkets and petrol station are open (they have back up generators). I buy lots of cheese as a present for Geoff. I considered buying the 2kg block of Gouda but it was 190 pin - well over £20! I get a box of red wine instead 135 pin for 4 bottles worth - bargain!
On Sunday we have a lovely risotto for lunch cooked by Fi. Sitting on their porch in the warmth with a glass of wine is idyllic. There's even a small bat clinging to the bricks supporting the roof!
What can I carry on my bicycle?
I think there's enough variety to warrant an occasional column on the correct use of the bicycle. At home you generally only see a single rider. Occasionally smaller children will have picked up a passenger - perhaps on the back or sat on the seat whilst the rider stands. It is clear that we underestimate the usefulness of this humble means of transport. Here are a few things I've seen:
- Another bike - either crossways across the pannier rack or tied on with the back wheel as an extra axle
- Various lengths of 2 x 4 - strapped longways or crossways depending whether you want to lance pedestrians or just take their legs out
- An unfeasibly large number of large whicker baskets (fine until the wind blows)
- A live chicken held in the right hand of the rider, who is also holding the handle bars with that hand
- A live goat - tied across the pannier rack with bungee cord (note: it will bleat every so often, which could be annoying / distressing)
- A dead pig - on the pannier rack but you might want to cover it in some green vegetation so that passers by are not offended. [I was laughed at by a lady who saw me staring to try and work out what was going on]
- A couple - sit the man on the cross bar by the handlebars and the lady on the pannier rack
- A breastfeeding lady - side saddle on the pannier rack, obviously
- A whole set of garden tools tied on in various places
- If you are the rider and have a baby then just tie them to you with a Chitenga - perhaps on the front so you can keep a better eye on them...
No comments:
Post a Comment